By Ashley Sim
NESTLED halfway up the lush, verdant slopes of Mount Singai in Bau, Sarawak, the Catholic Memorial & Pilgrimage Centre (CMPC) beckons pilgrims, hikers, and nature enthusiasts alike.
Mount Singai, with its panoramic views and tranquil atmosphere, has long been revered as a sacred site by the Catholic community in Sarawak. At the heart of this spiritual oasis, the CMPC serves as a focal point for prayer, contemplation, and worship.
One of the most profound experiences awaiting pilgrims is the ascent through the 14 Stations of the Cross, a symbolic representation of the Passion of Christ. Each station depicts a specific event along the path Jesus walked on his way to crucifixion, inviting pilgrims to meditate on the significance of His sacrifice.
For the record, the hike up to Mount Singai is divided into two sections. The first part of the route features a staircase leading to the CMPC, while the second part is a hiking trail that takes visitors to the summit of Mount Singai.
On average, it takes hikers about 30 to 40 minutes to get to the CMPC, and another two hours to reach Mount Singai’s summit from the centre.
Birth of Christianity in Bau
Mount Singai’s earliest settlers were Bidayuh from Kalimantan who arrived in the early 1800s.
The mountain’s elevated location and steep slopes offered protection from enemy attacks, which led the arrivals to set up villages. The Bisingai (people of Mount Singai) were pagans or animists who believed in ancestral worship as well as nature and ancient spirits.
The summit of Mount Singai was once a sacred site for the Bisingai to perform religious rituals, but this is no longer practiced now that the Bisingai have converted to Catholicism. In fact, Mount Singai is considered the birthplace of Christianity in Bau’s Bidayuh community.
In 1885, Fr Felix Westerwoudt, a Roman Catholic priest from Holland arrived in Kuching and later established a missionary church in a longhouse on Mount Singai. The young priest learnt the local language and culture.
He also attempted to teach the boys reading, writing, and arithmetic but his efforts were mostly unsuccessful.
He lived alongside the Bisingai until his death in 1898 at the age of 37 from a severe illness, in the hopes of converting them to Christianity. At his death, only seven families had converted to Christianity.
Fr Westerwoudt’s childhood friend and successor, Fr Albert Reyffert, then arranged for the seven families to establish a new settlement at Kampung Sagah, Matang. He also set up a mission school there.
Seeing the success of the Catholic families in their new surroundings, their former neighbours began sending their children to the mission school.
Many of the students converted to Catholicism and remained at Kampung Sagah, causing the number of villagers living on the mountain to gradually decline and the original Singai settlements to become deserted. The villagers would return only to harvest fruit.
Homecoming
In 1981, during the 100th anniversary celebration of the Catholic Church of Sarawak, Fr Josef Schmolzer (fondly known as Fr Sepp to the locals), a Mill Hill priest serving in Bau-Lundu parish, proposed that the parish-level celebration should take place at the original site of the Mission at Mount Singai.
On July 12, 1981, approximately 400 Catholics from the Singai villages stepped foot for the first time into their ancestral home.
This pilgrimage was the first of many by the local Bidayuh Catholics and also the first milestone in a series of events that would lead to the establishment of the pilgrimage centre to serve the needs of the growing number of pilgrims.
On Sept 5, 1995, the CMPC was blessed by His Grace Archbishop Datuk Peter Chung as part of the Parish Double Jubilee Celebrations.
On Nov 21, 1999, Chung officially dedicated the centre to Christ the King, and blessed and declared it as a place for pilgrimages during the Jubilee Year 2000 programme.
Every year, the centre draws thousands of local and foreign visitors, comprising Catholics and members of other Christian groups, as well as members of the public.
Finding peace on a Monday expedition
It takes approximately a half-hour’s drive from Kuching City to reach the foot of Mount Singai. Visitors can conveniently park near the CMPC entrance at a private parking lot for a fee of RM5.
As the DayakDaily team approached the entrance to Mount Singai, we were met with the majestic sight of the Christ the King statue, which was erected last year and unveiled as Bau’s newest landmark.
The arch at the CMPC entrance features a statue of Jesus Christ on the right and one of Mother Mary on the left, making it an ideal location for photos.
An information board at the entrance features the Mount Singai Climb Map. There is also another board with information about the 14 Stations of the Cross.
Prior to embarking on the hike, visitors are presented with an opportunity to partake in a unique act of ‘gotong-royong’.
Bags of sand and gravel, neatly packed in plastic bags, await eager hands willing to assist in their transport to the CMPC for construction purposes. This charitable act reflects the spirit of community and service that underpins the setting up of the CMPC.
The CMPC is a popular destination on weekends, particularly on Sundays. However, we decided to make the hike to the CMPC on a Monday, which provided a more serene experience.
The 14 Stations of the Cross
The pilgrimage begins at the first station, where Jesus is condemned to death, and continues through fourteen stations, each marked by a wooden cross adorned with intricate carvings depicting scenes from the Passion of Christ.
Station by station, the narrative unfolds: from the agonising weight of the cross, to the tender moment of Jesus meeting His grieving mother, to the climactic crucifixion and burial.
The rest stops at each station provide an opportunity for visitors to take a break, read the descriptions, and engage in moments of introspection and devotion, enhancing their journey.
For Christians, these stations provide a moment of reflection and prayer, transforming the physical act of climbing into a spiritual ascent.
According to locals, the tranquil surroundings of Mount Singai enhance the pilgrimage experience, offering a sanctuary for prayer and contemplation.
The rustling of leaves, the gentle breeze, and the melodious chirping of birds create a serene atmosphere conducive for spiritual reflection.
A test of body and spirit
The hike to the CMPC can be quite challenging. We made it to the centre in about 45 minutes from the mountain foot. The wooden plank steps, particularly steep in certain sections and widely spaced apart, can be quite daunting, especially for elderly visitors or young children.
These same conditions can make descending especially tricky, requiring extra caution to avoid mishaps.
However, there’s no need for concern. Simply be sure to grip the railings securely and proceed onward. While wearing sports shoes would facilitate walking, many local villagers effortlessly ascend and descend in their slippers.
Practical amenities are thoughtfully placed along the route. Visitors will find a lavatory between stations 9 and 10, providing a convenient facility for those in need of a short break.
Additionally, there is a cliff-side rest stop located between stations 11 and 12. From here, visitors can enjoy awe-inspiring views of the lush rainforest and the charming villages of Bau below.
The construction materials can be offloaded at station 13, and it’s clear that there are many people who are eager to lend a hand, judging by the number of plastic bags.
Upon arriving at station 13, a sense of relief washed over us, for we had at long last reached the CMPC.
CMPC, a dual purpose
The CMPC serves two functions: as a permanent commemorative site for the ancestors of the Bidayuhs and the first missionaries, and as a Christian pilgrimage centre.
Certain sections of the CMPC appear to be currently undergoing renovations.
Upon our arrival at the chapel, we couldn’t help but notice the distinctive shape of the building, resembling a Baruk (Bidayuh ceremonial house), and its impressive capacity to accommodate 300 people.
Our eyes were immediately drawn to a banner featuring a letter from CMPC chairman Vincent Eddy Sireng, dated March 1 of this year. The letter appealed for donations towards the CMPC building and maintenance fund.
There is also outdoor grotto, offering a serene location for visitors to pause for quiet contemplation and seek spiritual solace.
A destination for all
Mount Singai’s CMPC is a versatile destination. For the devout, it provides a meaningful pilgrimage and a chance to walk in contemplation and prayer. For nature enthusiasts and hikers, it offers a satisfying physical challenge and the reward of stunning natural beauty.
To fully appreciate the peaceful ambiance of Mount Singai, an early start is recommended. Arriving around 8am not only allows for enjoyment of the cool morning air, but also provides a quieter, more reflective experience before the crowds arrive.
The video below shows our journey to the CMPC.
— DayakDaily
