By Wilfred Pilo
The savoury, bite-sized popcorn chicken at Chin Khoon has been a crowd favourite at Hui Sing Open Air Hawker Centre for years, drawing loyal patrons with its distinctive flavour and satisfying crunch.
Prepared by 58-year-old culinary enthusiast Augustin Then, the crispy chicken pieces deliver a flavourful ‘burst’ with every bite—an experience that keeps customers coming back for more.
A husband-and-wife operation, the stall has built a steady following over the past decade, particularly after Then transitioned from running a fast-food venture at the same location to focusing on simpler, more popular offerings.
Coming from a culinary family that operated at the now-defunct Palm Road Hawker Centre between the 1970s and 1990s, Then said adapting to changing food trends was key to sustaining the business.
“We saw the need to adapt to evolving food preferences, so I introduced popcorn chicken—something commonly found in Taiwanese street food—more than a decade ago,” he told DayakDaily.
He explained that understanding customer demographics played a crucial role in shaping his menu.
“We have to adapt to the culinary environment and understand what customers want. When my father started at Palm Road, we were in the beverages business.
“As the area became busier in the 1980s, demand shifted, and we began selling satay, which became very popular.”
The family relocated to Hui Sing in 1993, initially continuing with satay, before Then took over and pivoted to fast food to cater to nearby college students.
“It was well received because of our affordable prices and flavours that suited our customers, many of whom were young international students who enjoyed Sarawak dishes,” he said.
However, rising ingredient costs and the demands of running a fast-food operation led Then and his wife, Yeo Siok Kheng, to simplify their business model.
“After my parents retired, we found fast food too labour-intensive. That’s when we started selling popcorn chicken, and we’ve been doing it ever since,” he said.
Then handles ingredient preparation in the morning, while Yeo manages the kitchen and serves customers in the afternoon.
“It’s basically a two-person show,” he said with a laugh.
Yeo added that keeping operations simple makes the workload manageable.
“We only operate about four hours a day and have five items on the menu, so it’s quite manageable. Our signature popcorn chicken is usually served with rice and potato chips, and it’s especially popular among younger customers,” she said.
Other popular items include butter chicken rice and black pepper fried chicken rice.
With only one daughter showing interest in continuing the family’s culinary tradition, the couple is taking things one step at a time. For now, they have no plans to retire and remain committed to their role within the hawker community.
“We are a close-knit community and support one another. Since 1993, our bond has grown stronger, and we continue to guide younger hawkers,” Then said.
Chin Khoon is located at Stall No. 5, Hui Sing Open Air Hawker Centre, and operates daily from 3pm to 7pm, except Saturdays. For enquiries, contact 010-966 4141. — DayakDaily
