By Wilfred Pilo
The rhythmic sizzle of ‘yau char kway’ (Chinese breadsticks) hitting hot oil serves as a familiar morning wake-up call for patrons at A One Café in the BDC Commercial Centre.
For 52-year-old Johnny Liew, that sound, along with the aroma of frying dough, has been a central part of his daily life for the past 20 years.
Johnny, a Kuching-born Hakka and father of one, is the artisan behind the crispy ‘yau char kway’, a breakfast staple that many locals enjoy with a hot cup of black coffee each morning.
His stall comes alive at dawn, when most people are still asleep. By the time the first customers arrive, Johnny is already busy preparing, stretching, and frying the dough in a hot wok.
For Johnny, making ‘yau char kway’ is more than just a way to earn a living. It is also about keeping alive a food tradition that has been part of local breakfast culture for generations.
He learned the trade from a chef from China who was working in Kuching. Johnny apprenticed under the master before the chef returned to China, diligently committing the craft to memory.
Before entering the food business, Johnny worked in sales and had a regular 9-to-5 job. But his interest in traditional food eventually drew him into the world of ‘yau char kway’.
He was fascinated by the morning scene at coffee shops, where customers sat down with their coffee and enjoyed the simple, crispy breadstick.
“Plenty of work goes into that simple piece of fried bread,” he chuckled.
“When I first started, I sold one piece for 80 sen. Now it is RM1.80 because of inflation,” he said.
Johnny prepares his dough every afternoon so that it is ready for the following morning.
In the early days of his career, Johnny supplied his ‘yau char kway’ to customers between 11pm and 6am. However, as he has grown older, he has begun prioritising his health and now operates his stall only in the morning.
Even after two decades, he still enjoys watching the dough turn golden and crispy in the hot oil. For him, there is something special about seeing a customer dip a crispy breadstick into a cup of hot black coffee.
“That is our local morning culture,” he said with a smile.
More than anything, Johnny sees ‘yau char kway’ as a vital part of local culture. Driven to preserve the tradition, he encourages younger generations to appreciate honest, artisanal food.
He remains dedicated to his craft, finding deep fulfilment in serving his community a perfectly crispy breakfast each morning.
His stall is located at the A One Café Food Centre in the BDC Commercial Centre, where he serves customers daily from 5am to 10am. For inquiries, call 012-880 1988. — DayakDaily
