By Ashley Sim
KUCHING, March 14: At the break of dawn, before the hustle and bustle of Kuching begins, the aromatic steam of Sarawak laksa drifts from a humble stall at Jun Jia Chin Cafe in BDC Commercial Centre—operated by 61-year-old Wilfred Syed Pilo, a veteran reporter now working part-time.
Though Wilfred is the face of the stall, the true mastermind behind the laksa broth is his wife, who brings years of culinary experience to the table.
“I may run the stall, but she’s the real chef,” Wilfred admits with a grin. “I’m just the quality control.”
Their stall has become a local favourite, attracting both regulars and newcomers eager to taste their take on the classic dish.
Wilfred shared with DayakDaily that his culinary journey began long before his time in journalism. During the early stages of adulthood in the United Kingdom (UK), he worked at McDonald’s and later at a Chinese restaurant in Brighton, where he learned the fundamentals of kitchen management, hygiene, and—most importantly—understanding what customers want.
Those experiences, along with years of living abroad and learning to cook for himself, shaped his approach to food.
When the opportunity to run a laksa stall came, Wilfred and his wife embraced it, seeing it as both a challenge and a tribute to Sarawak’s iconic dish.
“I’m not sure if my laksa is the best,” Wilfred admits humbly, “but I know it’s competitive.”
He ensures each batch of gravy is just right—flavourful, balanced, and authentic.
“People experiment with laksa these days—laksa with cheese, laksa with fruit—but I believe in keeping it true to its roots,” he said.
His approach has paid off, with a steady stream of repeat customers who crave the consistency of a good, honest bowl of laksa.
Mornings are their busiest, with the rush starting as early as 6am, and by noon, they’re usually sold out. “Sometimes, customers come in before my broth is even hot!” Wilfred said with a laugh.
Despite the challenges of running a food business, he thrives on the immediate feedback from customers. “In journalism, you write a story and wait for reactions. Here, you serve a bowl, and the reaction is instant.”
Though no longer reporting full-time, Wilfred sees the laksa stall as a flavourful chapter in his journey of reinvention.
He believes in taking risks and chasing what feels right—even if it means changing paths. “I’m not scared. Of course, I’m scared,” he said, laughing at the contradiction. “But you have to take the leap. If you don’t try, you’ll never know. If you have a passion, pursue it. Life isn’t about being stuck in one path. It’s about evolving, learning, and finding new ways to do what you love.”
Wilfred and his wife share a dream—to one day open their own café, where he can serve not just laksa but a variety of dishes, blending his love for different cuisines.
Until then, they continue perfecting their craft, serving bowls of steaming laksa, one satisfied customer at a time.
Wilfred’s laksa stall at Jun Jia Chin Cafe in BDC Commercial Centre opens bright and early at 6am daily, with most of the laksa typically sold out by noon. — DayakDaily
