By Wilfred Pilo
KUCHING, Sept 24: Tangy mustard greens, fragrant Foochow red wine and thick, chewy rice vermicelli come together in a steaming bowl of broth that is as comforting as it is distinctive.
For 55-year-old Ling Shan Hu, this humble bowl of “sour mustard thick bihun” or “Zao Cai Fen Gan” is more than just another noodle dish. It is a taste of home and a culinary tradition she has spent 15 years perfecting.
Served at her Shan Hu Foochow Special (Sibu) stall at JJ Cafe in 3rd Mile Maong Bazaar, the dish has quietly won over Kuching diners, including those who were previously unfamiliar with the traditional Sibu-style specialty.
Ling said the dish is particularly popular among customers looking to try something different from more familiar Foochow favourites such as kampua and ding bian hu.
Although she has lived in Kuching since the age of 11, Ling observed that many diners, especially non-Chinese customers, are still unfamiliar with some of the traditional dishes associated with Sibu and Foochow cuisine.
That makes introducing dishes such as her sour mustard noodle soup especially meaningful to her.
The thick rice vermicelli is served in a broth made from chicken stock and Foochow red wine, with mustard greens pickled using red yeast rice residue giving the soup its characteristic tangy flavour.
The dish can be paired with chicken or pork belly and comes with tomato and garlic, while seafood can also be added for those who prefer it.
“It is served with chicken or pork belly, tomato and garlic, with seafood available as an option.
“So, this is one dish I prepare with great passion for any customer willing to try it,” she told Dayak Daily.
But the sour mustard noodles are only one part of Ling’s menu.
Her stall serves a range of Foochow specialities, drawing Kuching residents as well as diners from Sibu who come looking for flavours that remind them of home.
Ling said she was happy to see growing interest in Foochow food, particularly as diners become more adventurous in exploring traditional cuisines.
For her, however, keeping the food authentic remains just as important as attracting new customers.
She said she is among the Foochow food operators in Kuching who continue to preserve traditional recipes and flavours, helping ensure that dishes familiar to older generations are not forgotten.
One ingredient that features prominently in her cooking is Foochow red wine.
“I make my own rice wine, and it is a must-have ingredient in most of my cooking. I use it in almost every dish I serve unless a customer specifically requests that I omit it,” she said.
Ling’s passion for Foochow cooking dates back to childhood.
Her parents were fishermen who spent long hours at sea, meaning Ling and her siblings had to learn to prepare their own meals so there would always be something hot to eat at home.
Their grandmother, who lived nearby, became their teacher.
She taught all the siblings how to cook, passing down not only practical skills but also the traditional Foochow flavours that would eventually become an important part of Ling’s culinary identity.
Those childhood lessons stayed with her.
Ling eventually turned her passion for cooking into a career, working at several eateries before establishing her current stall in 3rd Mile. She also spent four years working in Kota Kinabalu.
“I loved preparing traditional Foochow dishes; sometimes customers even brought their own ingredients for me to cook,” she said.
Today, every bowl she serves is an extension of that lifelong connection to Foochow food.
And for diners willing to look beyond the more familiar noodles and local staples, Ling hopes her sour mustard sour thick bihun will offer a delicious introduction to the distinctive flavours of Sibu.
The Shan Hu Foochow Special (Sibu) stall is located at JJ Cafe, 3rd Mile, Maong Bazaar. It operates daily from 7am to 2pm, except Fridays. For enquiries, call 016-887 0757. — DayakDaily
