By Wilfred Pilo
Every few minutes, 64-year-old Hakka artisan Chai Siaw Foong lifts the lid of her metal steamer to remove a fresh batch of steaming chai kuih—savoury vegetable dumplings she has been making daily for more than 18 years at her stall in Maong Bazaar, Third Mile Commercial Centre.
With their soft, glossy, and translucent skins, the dumplings are a familiar sight at her stall, where customers arrive early in the morning for a taste of the traditional snack.
For Chai, however, making chai kuih is more than a livelihood. It is a family tradition that connects her to her Hakka heritage and culinary roots.
Many customers have praised her skill in making the traditional dumplings, with some saying she is the only vendor in the Third Mile area who still makes them by hand.
One customer described the dumplings as a source of Hakka pride, with their savoury fillings offering a nostalgic taste that reminds many locals of their childhood.
Chai said her passion for making chai kuih was nurtured from a young age, when she helped her family prepare the dumplings and their fillings.
“When I was young, I often made the dumplings and prepared the fillings with the rest of my family, helping my mother in the kitchen so that we could enjoy them together.
“It was a time for family bonding and learning the traditional culinary arts of making our ancestral snack. It was a happy time full of laughter and joy,” she told DayakDaily.
Today, Chai prepares several fillings, including jicama, fermented salted vegetables, bean curd, bamboo shoots, and peanuts, giving customers a range of flavours to choose from.
“Different customers have their own preferences, and these are the variations I prepare daily to offer them a wider selection,” she said.
She also accepts pre-orders for freshly steamed dumplings for celebrations and festivals.
“It has become a routine these days, and I am happy that it comes from my regular customers who have supported me by buying these traditional dumplings over the years,” she said.
Chai has since turned dumpling-making into a profession, dedicating herself to keeping the traditional snack alive.
“Many of my customers here enjoy the dumplings with other meals they order from the eatery. They have truly appreciated my dumplings and enjoy my savoury snacks, which is why I would not simply hang up my apron.
“It has become a trademark snack for those who come to the cafe,” she said.
Chai hopes the dumplings will remain popular among younger generations, describing them as an important part of Hakka and Teochew culinary heritage.
She also hopes the continued appreciation for traditional kuih will help sustain the livelihoods of traditional kuih makers in Sarawak.
Chai’s stall can be found at Dragon Village Cafe in Maong Bazaar, Third Mile Commercial Centre. It is open daily from 6am to 11am, except Mondays.
For inquiries, call 016-980 7010. — DayakDaily
