By Shikin Louis
BAU, May 2: What was once daily sustenance for the Bidayuh community is now a living showcase of heritage, with ancestral dishes taking centre stage at Bung Bratak Day 2026.
Among those bringing these flavours to life was first-time participant Deong Goeng, 59, from Kampung Serasot, a member of the Bidayuh Jagoi community, who was invited by organisers to take part in this year’s event.
At her booth, which stretched across about five tables, Deong and her family members prepared and promoted a variety of traditional dishes, including lemang served with peanut gravy, tubik muos (leaf-wrapped rice), sukui banuok or tumpik bandung (traditional Bidayuh leaf-wrapped kuih), linut (sago porridge), as well as sup ikan keli tempoyak (catfish soup with fermented durian) and chicken soup.
“I chose these dishes because they represent the identity of the Bidayuh community. I don’t want our traditional food to disappear.
“That is why I am bringing them forward through this programme, so that visitors, including the younger generation, can recognise and appreciate what our people have long eaten,” she told DayakDaily when met during Bung Bratak Day 2026 celebration yesterday (May 1).
She explained that these dishes are deeply rooted in Bidayuh life, particularly during festive seasons such as Gawai Dayak.
“Since the old days, the Bidayuh community has always prepared lemang during festive celebrations like Gawai. It is not just food — it is something we share together, usually eaten with vegetables and meat, bringing families and communities closer,” she said.
On sago, she shared that it is traditionally processed into linut, a staple that is paired with a variety of savoury accompaniments.
“For sago, we process it into linut, and it is best enjoyed with different types of gravy. Today, I prepared two — chicken soup and catfish cooked with fermented durian (tempoyak).
“These days, some people also enjoy linut with sambal belacan or even kedondong sambal, showing how the dish continues to evolve,” she added.
Deong also highlighted sukui banuok, or tumpik bandung, as a traditional Bidayuh delicacy with roots tracing back generations.
“In the past, we did not have many types of cakes. So this was what we made — our own version of a traditional cake.
“This knowledge comes from our ancestors. Since young, our families planted cassava, and we learned how to process it into food like this,” she said.
She noted that the dish was once a simple but essential part of daily life.
“Back then, this was something we ate for breakfast — a routine meal, whether you were rich or poor. It was part of everyday life,” she said.
Adapting to modern tastes, Deong said she has refined her tumpik bandung recipe to make it more appealing to today’s crowd.
“Today, I have modernised it slightly by using margarine and gula apong to enhance the flavour. It makes the kuih richer and more attractive, especially for visitors and food lovers who may be trying it for the first time,” she explained.
Beyond the food itself, her booth also stood out for its strong cultural presence, with Deong and her family members dressed in traditional Bidayuh attire while preparing and serving the dishes.
Despite appearing layered, she said the clothing remains comfortable even throughout the day.
“The outfit may look heavy, like we are wearing layers, but it is actually very comfortable. It depends on the fabric where we choose materials that are breathable and suitable for our weather,” she said.
More importantly, she said wearing the attire is a reflection of identity and pride.
“I like wearing this because it represents who I am as a Bidayuh. I don’t want people to look at me and not know my identity. I want them to recognise it from afar and understand that I am Bidayuh. My family feels the same way,” she added.
Deong, who also operates a small catering service from her home, said Bung Bratak Day has given her more than just a platform to sell food where it allows her to share stories, traditions and a sense of belonging rooted in her heritage. — DayakDaily
