By Wilfred Pilo
In 2010, a young Teochew boy learned how to prepare Foochow noodle cuisine, kampua, at the age of 16. Two years later, he opened his own noodle stall. Six years after that, he switched to making one of Kuching’s signature dishes—kolo mee.
Now 32, James Ng continues to serve his popular version of the beloved noodle dish with what he calls a ‘touch of Teochew’ flavour. After 14 years in the culinary trade, he now operates six kolo mee stalls.
Two years ago, Ng—also known as ‘Teochew Boy’—took a bold step by expanding his business, opening five additional stalls across Kuching.
“I wasn’t interested in academics; I wanted the freedom to earn a living. I left school at 16. I didn’t really have a plan, but my instincts guided me to a well-known kampua mee ‘sifu’ (master) in Kuching who took me on as an apprentice for a year,” he told DayakDaily, recalling how his culinary journey began.
“That was it. I learned the craft and realised I was good at it.”
Ng said he spent six years serving Foochow-style noodles before deciding to venture into making kolo mee, the iconic noodle dish synonymous with Kuching.
“I thought it was a bit odd that a Teochew was making Foochow noodles, though I have great respect for the cuisine and my sifu.
“In reality, the process of making kampua and kolo mee is quite similar—the main difference lies in the ingredients. I also wanted to introduce a touch of Teochew flavour to my kolo mee.”
He admitted that the move was partly a business strategy to strengthen his noodle business in Kuching.
“More people are developing a taste for the local iconic noodle here. With six years of culinary experience, I created my own version of kolo mee, and it has captivated many customers and regulars.
“Thanks to the support and recognition from customers, I know I have the opportunity to serve a noodle dish that suits their taste buds,” he said with a smile.
Apart from kolo mee, Ng now offers seven other noodle dishes, along with nine à la carte noodle and soup options.
“Besides my kolo mee, I highly recommend the sio bak mee (three-layer crispy pork noodle). It’s a flavourful Teochew dish, and all my dishes are reasonably priced,” he said.
“These are comfort foods that people enjoy at any time of the day, and I hope my patrons will keep coming back to support me.”
Ng also had a message for young people who may struggle academically.
“Even if you’re a dropout, don’t give up. There are plenty of opportunities if you’re bold enough to pursue something that makes you happy,” he advised.
Ng named his stall ‘Kimsua Kolo Mee’, explaining that ‘kimsua’ means ‘gold mountain’ in Teochew.
“I hope the word ‘gold’ motivates me to build a better life through my business. This opportunity was given to me by my sifu, and I’m forever grateful.”
He also hopes to provide similar opportunities to his staff, many of whom are young people.
“I want to give them the chance to earn a living through noodle-making. One day, they might even start their own businesses and build a decent livelihood.
“Now that I have six stalls, I feel like my journey is just beginning. I look forward to writing more new culinary chapters soon,” he said with a smile.
Ng currently operates two Kimsua Kolo Mee stalls at Xin Darren Coffee Shop, Trinity Hub (3½ Mile), Kuching, which open daily from 7am to 2pm, except on Wednesdays.
His other outlets include two stalls at Peach Garden (Jalan Song), one at On3 Kopitiam (Jalan Song), and one at Big Canteen (6½ Mile), Kuching.
For more information, contact 016-962 9309. — DayakDaily
