By Wilfred Pilo
KUCHING, Dec 15: Forty-five years ago, a young Tan Chin Kui, now 58, was earning just RM3 a day–an apprentice’s wage that seemed more than enough for a jolly teenager at the time.
There was nothing more he could ask for, and little did he know, the humble salary from selling pork leg rice dishes would someday set him on a path to mastering the craft and making him a beloved figure in the city’s culinary scene.
Today, Tan, affectionately known by his peers as Ah Kui, is a renowned connoisseur of pork leg rice, a dish that has become a staple in the area thanks to his dedication and expertise.
For him, that RM3 a day was not just a mere pocket change–it was the spark that ignited his love for the culinary arts. Under the guidance of his ‘sifu’ (mentor), a well-known pork leg rice specialist in his own right, Tan honed his skills and fell in love with the trade.
Looking back, Tan shared with DayakDaily that the RM3 wage means more to him now that it did back then, after three decades of helming his own stall.
“Such apprentice money is nothing now compared to how he had made me, and I am rewarded with something that not many people could not do and made a trade out of it.
“I thank my ‘sifu’ as he made me who I am and helped me to make a profession from it. I am glad my culinary mentor and former employer is still alive to see my achievement. He is 85, and I wish him a longer and wishful life. He was the best!
“If you stick to something no matter how small the reward with perseverance and having a great time making them, then you could not ask for more. For me, I felt that way and I appreciate it,” Tan reflected with a warm smile.
As the years passed, Tan came to understand his mentor’s wisdom more than ever, joking that if his mentor had started his journey today, he might be an even bigger name in the culinary world.
“My mentor had his time 45 years ago, but I have inherited his legacy. I could only say what I am today is a tribute to my mentor’s culinary expertise. I have been doing the dishes for three decades ” he chuckled.
Over the years, Tan moved his stall to various locations in Padungan, a busting commercial centre, until just two months ago when he settled into his current space–his very own cafe, Ah Kui Pork Leg Rice.
“All this started 45 years ago, and I am pleased with where I am. My 26-year-old son, Steven is helping me. He has been in the culinary trade for two years.
“I am confident he (Steven) will follow my legacy as he has all the prerequisites,” said Tan.
Apart from his signature pork leg rice, Tan’s cafe also offers ‘kueh chap,’ a dish he also makes, featuring broad flat rice sheets in dark broths–its incredients similar to those in pork leg rice.
“The ingredients are similar to pork leg rice except it is served with the broad flat rice sheet in dark broths. My friend is doing it,” Tan added.
In addition, the menu includes laksa, fishball noodle soup, fried noodle dishes, and more, giving diners a variety of choices upon their visit.
“I can only say thank you to them (patrons) from over my workstation. This is the only way to express all my appreciation and their support for liking my dishes over the years,” he said.
Tan’s Ah Kui Pork Leg Rice is located at 148 Jalan Padungan, operating from 6am to 8pm, except on Tuesdays. For more information, call 013-566 7667. —DayakDaily
