Heritage Snippets of Sarawak
By Alex Teoh
On the return visit to Bario, during the recent cultural and culinary festival, Pesta Nukenen, Alex Teoh pays tribute to the warm and friendly people and the cool, green and fresh Kelabit Highlands and their role in various military campaigns.
SET in the interior of Borneo, in present day fourth division Sarawak, are the plains of the Kelabit Highlands. Described as a “Shangri-La” (Rurum Kelabit Sarawak, Pesta Nukenen, 49), the plains—1000m above sea level—are blessed with abundant sunlight, fresh water, rich vegetation, ample supply of wildlife and cooling temperatures. The inhabitants are majority Kelabits who farmed the land and Penans who used to roam the forest.
Bario is the main settlement surrounding 16 longhouses and villages (Agan, Karl. Kelabit Phrasebook. 8). It is located near the Kalimantan Indonesian border. But its remoteness and isolation, did not exempt Bario and neighbouring longhouses from military activities during World War II and Konfrontasi. Amid these military events, major changes were brought to the local communities.
WWII (1942 – 1945) – the Japanese Invasion of Borneo
The northern Borneo states (Sarawak, Brunei, Labuan Island and British North Borneo) fell to the Japanese in January 1942, after a brief period of invasion.
To liberate the region from Japanese Occupation, the Allied forces launched various infiltrations from the coast. However, in March 1945, a secret SAS (Special Air Service) mission air-dropped eight parachuters into the interior of Borneo. Coined as “Operation Semut”, the first team of operatives landed near Bario Asal longhouse. This was followed by five other operations. To date, much has been written and published about Semut Operations, including the operational challenges, personnels involved, and its military successes.
Memorial services to commemorate the sacrifices of the war veterans and victims are held yearly at Bario Memorial Park. These services are attended by locals and overseas descendants of the Semut operatives.
Currently, there is also a photographic exhibition at the Bario library, entitled “A Matter of Trust, Dayaks & Z Special Unit Operatives in Borneo 1945”. This exhibition was originally held at Australian War Memorial, Canberra, Australia. The library is also the recipient of a generous donation of military books by the late last surviving Operation Semut operative, Major Jack Tredrea.
Konfrontasi (1963–1966)—the undeclared war with Indonesia
When Sarawak, North Borneo and Singapore joined the Federation of Malaya to form Malaysia in 1963, Indonesia under President Sukarno declared “Konfrontasi” (Confrontation) with Malaysia. The protracted war along the 1,000km-long Sarawak-Indonesia border, saw multiple jungle clashes resulting in casualties.
The following pictures were selected from photograph collections and albums belonging to a Commonwealth officer, a Malaysian military personnel and local Border Scouts active during the Borneo Campaign.
At the peak of Konfrontasi, Bario was a base for RNAS (Royal Navy Air Services). The airstrip was constantly busy (and noisy) with military aircrafts and helicopters. A battalion of British and Gurkha forces were stationed at the quarters next to the airstrip and hill slopes. The primary school and its school field are in the foreground.
Re-location of Longhouses to Bario
For better control and security, remote longhouses were relocated to Bario. Helicopters ferried the residents and their “limited allowance” of personal belongings, tools, wood, etc.
Penghulu of Bario’s visit to Aircraft Carrier HMS Albion
Air-flown from Bario to Labuan in May 1966, Penghulu Ngimat Ayu and Cikgu Henry Jala are welcomed by the Albion’s Commanding Officer, Captain Place.
Exchange of Mementos—A Kelabit sun hat and a framed picture of HMS Albion.
Border Scouts
Bario residents including Roland Agan@Mustapha Raja Sewa and James Maga served as a Border Scouts. The Border Scouts performed an effective role in patrolling the border regions and gathering local intelligence of any suspicious activities.
Military activities in remote jungles
Raids and border incursion tactics were executed by the invading guerrilla forces. The British and Commonwealth forces (comprising Australian, Gurkha, Malaysian and New Zealand personnel) responded with quick counterattacks using helicopters.
Major General Walker, the Director of Operations in Borneo is quoted as saying: “A single battalion with six helicopters is worth more in the jungle than the whole brigade with none.” The battlefield helicopter offered insurance against the risk of ambush on a track or along a river, and offered speed, mobility, and flexibility (Roger Annett, Borneo Boys, 19).
A Royal Navy helicopter lands on a hilltop clearing, airlifting troops to trouble spots.
Konfrontasi ended in August 1966 with the signing of a peace treaty between Malaysia and Indonesia, after three years and eight months since it started.
On 28 August this year, a Veterans Day commemorative service was held at Heroes Memorial Park in Kuching. Attended by Australian and NZ military veterans, representatives of Commonwealth countries and the Malaysian military and police, tribute was paid to honour the fallen comrades. The solemn service ended with the anthems of Malaysia, Australia, New Zealand, United Kingdom and Sarawak. The press report of the commemorative event is as follows:
Malaysian, Australian, New Zealand military veterans gather to honour fallen comrades | DayakDaily
Bario, a time capsule
Sixty years on, visitors to Bario today can still spot the military remnants. Scattered over various locations, including the open rice fields or household compounds, these artefacts are left abandoned or even put into utilitarian use.
Acknowledgements
The author would like to thank the following for their kind assistance and sharing of their experiences: Sinah Paran Matu and family, Sinah Ngimat Ayu and family, Roland Agan@Mustapha Raja Sewa, James Maga, Stanley Issac, Gerawat Tuan, Jayl Langub and Datu Ose Murang.
Alex Teoh, a friend of FOSM, is a paper and book conservator of rare manuscripts, collectible prints, antique maps, photo albums and antiquarian books. His focus is on the local material culture of the written text in Southeast Asia. His interest is also in the material culture and documentary heritage of Borneo.
References
Agan, Karl (2023) Kelabit Phrasebook. Lembah Liris, Sarawak.
Annett, Roger (2012) Borneo Boys: RAF helicopters pilots in action—Indonesian Confrontation, 1962–1966. Pen & Sword Aviation, South Yorkshire.
Annett, Roger (2006) Drop Zone Borneo: the RAF Campaign 1963–65: the most successful use of armed forces in the Twentieth Century. Pen & Sword Military, South Yorkshire.
Jackson, Robert (2011) The Malayan Emergency & Indonesia Confrontation: The Commonwealth’s Wars 1948–1966. Pen & Sword Military, South Yorkshire.
Malaysia Government Press (1965) Indonesia Aggression Against Malaysia, Vol l and Vol II, Kuala Lumpur.
Ritchie, James (2017) Journey into the Central Highlands of Borneo: The Kelabit Leap of Faith. James Ritchie, Kuching
Rurum Kelabit Sarawak (2015) Pesta Nukenen: Celebrating the Cultural and Culinary Heritage of the Kelabit Highlands. Rurum Kelabit Sarawak, Sarawak
Van der Bijl, Nicholas (2007) Confrontation: The War with Indonesia, 1962–1966. Pen & Sword Military, South Yorkshire.
“Heritage Snippets of Sarawak” is a fortnightly column.
