By Wilfred Pilo
KUCHING, Oct 8: Preparing her version of Hainanese-style steamed chicken in a sweltering kitchen has been a passionate profession for 66-year-old Lee Siew Chiann, the proprietress of a local cafe.
After cooking the chicken, it is transferred to a cutting station at the cafe, where orders are taken. Eager customers await their turn to taste her succulent dishes.
This has been Lee’s daily routine since she began her Hainanese-style chicken rice venture more than 30 years ago.
Lee shared with DayakDaily that her culinary journey began at the age of 15 when she had to leave secondary school to help her father run their bakery and coffee shop, located at Jalan Gartak in Kuching, which had been passed down from her grandfather.
“My father, who came to Sarawak with my grandparents from China, made pastries like curry puffs and steamed buns when they arrived here,” she said.
“When my grandfather died, my late father was left to make the pastries on his own. I had to stop studying to help him, as my other siblings were busy managing the cafe.”
“From the age of 15, I’ve been working in this kind of culinary environment and heat,” she added with a chuckle.
After 20 years of making pastries and steamed buns filled with meat and vegetables, Lee decided to experiment with Hainanese-style chicken rice, seeing an increasing demand for quick, savory, and filling meals.
“I had never made Hainanese-style chicken rice before, so it was a nerve-wracking experience. It took me three years to get the taste just right,” Lee recalled.
“I often had family members, especially my cousins and friends, taste it. The ingredients and the dipping sauce had to be perfectly balanced.”
She emphasised that preparing Hainanese-style chicken rice is not as easy as it seems, especially when it comes to maintaining consistency in flavor.
“But after 30 years, I’m confident in the consistency of my dishes, and I’ve received positive feedback from both regulars and new customers,” she shared.
Lee first served her chicken rice at a stall in Green Hill before moving to a food court on Ban Hock Road. In 2004, she opened her own cafe at the Central Park Commercial Centre.
She revealed that customers tend to prefer drumsticks and thighs.
“I mostly prepare these parts, as they’re easier to cook and more in demand. I do, however, prepare two whole chickens in case customers want breast meat,” she added.
Today, Lee’s cafe, World Cafe, is managed by her only daughter, 48-year-old Chuo Aik Nyuk.
Chuo explained that her mother is the only one who handles the kitchen to ensure consistency in the dishes.
“I help manage the operations of the cafe,” said Chuo. “My father is still working at the age of 71. He says he’ll retire soon, but he enjoys working at his age.”
Chuo also acknowledged that many eateries in Kuching serve Hainanese-style chicken rice.
“Their dishes are good, and I support them. However, every vendor’s chicken rice has a unique flavor, even though it may be called ‘Hainanese-style.'”
“This diversity is good for vendors, as it encourages them to enhance their dishes and gives customers more choices,” she added.
Chuo hopes to continue her mother’s legacy in preparing the family’s signature chicken rice.
“I would be the fourth generation in the culinary world from my mother’s side of the family, and the second generation after her to continue making Lee’s Original Hainanese Steamed Chicken Rice,” she said.
World Cafe is located at Central Park Commercial Centre and operates daily from 6am to 4pm, except on Thursdays. For more information, call 014-332 7685. — DayakDaily
