By D’Drift Team
THE first of anything is always a triumph, a marker in time that signifies something extraordinary. And for Haji Abang Kiprawi, Akal Homestay in Kampung Dato Godam, Pusa, it is a title of distinction—the first Kampungstay (village stay) in Sarawak officially recognised by the Ministry of Tourism, Arts, and Culture (MOTAC).
Here, the air carries a scent of salt and earth, a gentle trace of the coastal winds rustling through the towering coconut trees that line the village’s cemented road. The golden afternoon sun filters through the swaying fronds, casting playful shadows upon the ground, where barefooted children could run with laughter ringing through the breeze.
This is not merely a homestay—it is a village stay, an immersion into a life where time moves at a languid pace, allowing one to breathe in the essence of a traditional Malay kampung. There is a beauty in the simplicity, a kind of nostalgia one doesn’t realise they long for until they are here, standing amidst it all.
Unlike the typical homestay where guests share a home with their hosts, a Kampungstay offers a different kind of retreat—privacy within the presence of tradition.
At Akal Homestay, seven units are available for guests, each offering a distinct experience. One may find comfort in a semi-detached wooden house, its structure reminiscent of the kampung homes of old, or opt for the standalone wooden house, a solitary sanctuary where the sounds of the village become a lullaby. For those who prefer a more modern touch, semi-detached concrete houses or single-room concrete units offer a blend of modern and traditional comfort.
We chose a semi-detached wooden house, a humble abode that carried the warmth of home. Inside, the modest yet inviting living room became the heart of our stay—a space to unwind, to watch television or simply gather in quiet companionship. The two bedrooms, one fitted with a queen-sized bed and the other with both a single and a queen, promises a restful night’s sleep under the soft hum of the air conditioner, a modern comfort ensuring that even the heat of the day would not follow us into slumber.
The kitchen stood ready for those who wished to prepare their own meals, its wooden shelves lined with the essentials, while the dining room invited guests to savour their meals together.
And while one might assume that a Kampungstay means surrendering to the elements, worry not—the rooms are equipped with air-conditioning, so even the heat of the tropics won’t overstay its welcome. With prices ranging between RM100 to RM300 per night, the experience is not only immersive but accessible for all.
Offering more than a Kampungstay
It began gradually, starting with an antique homestay located along the road of Kampung Dato Godam. It was an endeavour that Abang Kiprawi embarked on after his retirement, discovering a passion for hosting travellers. Realising the potential to elevate his venture into a proper Kampungstay, he pursued the necessary licensing for it, which he successfully obtained in August 2023.
Though he now operates the Kampungstay, he still offers guests the option of staying in the homestay as well, located less than 50m away. The difference is simple—those who choose the homestay will share a roof with him, experiencing the warmth of true kampung hospitality.
The homestay itself is a sight to behold—an architectural gem crafted from sturdy Bornean ironwood, reflecting the grandeur of traditional Malay houses. Its exterior speaks of heritage and craftsmanship, while the interior exudes an understated elegance, a space where nostalgia meets refined comfort.
Beneath the homestay, Abang Kiprawi has created a gathering space that can accommodate up to 100 guests, available for rent at only RM300.
With its picturesque setting, we couldn’t help but ask if he had ever hosted a wedding. He smiled and shook his head, but mentioned that couples have sought out the homestay for wedding photoshoots, paying a modest RM100 for the privilege of capturing their moments against its timeless backdrop.
Beyond being a host, Abang Kiprawi plays a larger role—he serves as the coordinator for 18 homestays within the Pusa area, managing bookings based on guest requests and ensuring that visitors are placed accordingly. His efforts extend far beyond his own homestay, weaving a network of hospitality that welcomes all who seek an authentic kampung experience.
The beauty that shaped a legend
Dayang Esah Tandang Sari was her name—a figure believed to have descended from Bruneian royalty. Her beauty was said to be beyond compare, a radiance so mesmerising that men fell helplessly under her spell, drawn to her as though the moon itself had descended to earth.
Yet, her allure was the subject of both adoration and mystery. Some believed she was more than human, her origins filled in legend. It was said that she had not been born in the way of mere mortals, but had instead emerged from an egg discovered by Datuk Temenggong Kadir nestled among the bamboo. This divine beginning only added to the enigma that surrounded her.
Adored and cherished, Dayang Esah was the embodiment of beauty itself. But such beauty came with a price. Her father, Datuk Temenggong Kadir, proclaimed that any man who wished to claim her hand must present an offering of 10 kati (an ancient measure, each kati approximately 600g) of gold. The demand was impossibly high, beyond the means of any suitor.
But then, there came a man of great wealth, a figure whose fortune could match the price that had seemed unattainable. With no choice, her father relented, and she was wedded to the one who could meet the demand.
Unfortunately, wealth alone could not command the heart, and though she was bound in marriage, her soul remained tethered to another. A love unfulfilled, a yearning that refused to be silenced—one that led to a trail of sorrow and death.
Who could have foreseen that such breathtaking beauty would bear so heavy a weight? That what should have been a gift could instead become a burden too great to bear?
Realising that her very existence had become a harbinger of tragedy, Dayang Esah sought to end it herself. Time and again, she drove a ‘keris’ (asymmetrical dagger) to her belly, but fate would not allow it—her flesh remained unscathed, defying every attempt.
“In the end, her father (Datuk Temenggong Kadir) ended her life by using seven strands of Esah’s hair,” Abang Kiprawi shared with the D’Drift team. Her own tresses, delicate yet imbued with an unearthly power, were wound around her neck and drawn tight, silken strands becoming the very threads that wove her final breath.
Mythical folktales aside, Dayang Esah was real. Her ‘makam’ (royal grave) stands in Pusa, a proof to a life that held a story of both wondrous and tragic. We had hoped to see it, to pay our respects, but the rain fell heavy, and the path, in need of mending, made the journey unwise.
Thus, the tale of Dayang Esah lingers like the fading light of dusk—beginning in wonder, whispered as a blessing, only to end in the hands of the one who had once cradled her life in his own.
Fresh catches and sweet delights
If you ever find yourself in Pusa, don’t leave without a container of its famed palm sugar—the freshest and most affordable you’ll find. And if your visit falls between June and November, treat yourself to ‘terubuk’ (toli shad), a prized fish known for its rich flavour and delicate texture. Abang Kiprawi swears by Pusa’s ‘terubuk’, claiming it to be the finest of them all, with top-quality catches fetching up to RM100 per kilogram.
As time moves forward, so do the generations, many seeking new lives in the cities while Pusa remains their ‘kampung’—a place of stories, traditions, and nostalgia. But for those yearning to experience village life in its purest form, where the yards stretch wide under swaying coconut trees and blooming foliage, Akal Homestay offers just that.
To begin your journey, reach out to Abang Kiprawi at 019-884 4986. –DayakDaily
