By D’Drift Team
IT is the longest hallway within a longhouse door that we have ever encountered—so vast that standing at one end felt like staring down the lane of a 100-metre race, if not longer.
The passage stretched seemingly without end, from the homestay entrance all the way to the back, an awe-inspiring sight that made us slow our steps in admiration. This was our first impression of Homestay Benjamin Angki, and even that was just the beginning.
We were greeted with warmth by our host, 56-year-old Frank Klukok, whose presence exuded the ease of a man well-accustomed to hospitality. Though he had only recently taken over the homestay from his brother-in-law, Benjamin Angki Kaboy, Frank carried on the legacy with effortless grace.
With a welcoming smile, he guided us through the longhouse, introducing us to family members who met us with cheerful spirits and open hearts.
Settling into our new surroundings, we were served tea—refreshing and much needed after our journey. The warmth of the beverage mirrored the kindness of our hosts, and in no time, the initial awkwardness between us dissolved. Conversations flowed as though among old friends, with our hosts insisting that we treat the space as home.
A home by the river, a welcome like no other
The longhouse that housed the homestay was not just a dwelling—it was a living relic of history, built in 1936. In just over a decade, it would stand at a proud century old. The homestay itself was officially licensed in 2011, founded by none other than Benjamin himself. Over the years, it has become a favourite stop for travellers of all kinds.
According to Frank, their guests often include day-trippers, sometimes arriving in impressive numbers. One such occasion saw a group of about 100 Taiwanese visitors, eager for a taste of the village life Kanowit has to offer. Another time, an expedition of nearly 700 people from the 4×4 club—locals, Bruneians, Indonesians, and even Europeans—made their stop for the night as they traversed Borneo’s untamed landscapes.
But not all visitors merely pass through. Frank recounted the time when an Australian guest—a man of Iranian descent—made the homestay his residence.
“We even had an Australian staying here for two months,” he said.
The homestay offers more than just a place to rest. It is an experience. Guests may be treated to cultural performances by the longhouse youth, take part in workshops, or embark on a serene river cruise that lasts an hour and a half.
For the anglers, a special treat awaits—the prized Kanowit giant freshwater prawn, a delicacy not easily found elsewhere. Boats are available for hire, should one wish to try their luck in the waters.
As our conversation continued, Frank brought up a memory that added another layer to the longhouse’s significance. Almost two decades ago, it bore witness to a unique wedding—a union between a Chinese doctor and his bride from West Malaysia. One might have assumed he had married an Iban woman, given that the ceremony was held in the longhouse, but no.
“He simply wanted to experience an Iban traditional wedding, to wear the costumes and all,” Frank recalled with a smile.
Lake and cannon blessings
Travellers come to Kanowit for different reasons—some for rest, others for adventure, and a few seeking something intangible. Among the places visited by those in search of blessings and spiritual solace is Kampung Bedil 1, a modest Melanau settlement of just 28 houses.
The village takes its name from ‘bedil’, the Malay word for cannon, a moniker rooted in history. As fate would have it, we chanced upon Patrick Muku, a local resident, who shared the legend of how the village came to bear its name.
Hundreds of years ago, Sir James Brooke, the White Rajah of Sarawak, rewarded the settlers with a cannon for aiding in the defence of their home.
“At first, he offered them shotguns,” Patrick recounted, “but they declined. So instead, he gave them a cannon.”
This was no ordinary weapon. Over time, it became known for its mystical properties. People would come ‘berniat’ (with intents) in their hearts, seeking blessings for health, protection, and even fertility. During the recent rainy season, the villagers turned to the cannon once more, asking that their homes be spared from the flood. And though the waters rose, their village remained largely untouched.
A fascinating twist to the tale is that this cannon is said to be the missing pair to another, which now rests near the Sarawak Museum in Kuching. Attempts were made to reunite the two, but despite the efforts of ten men, the cannon in the village refused to be moved. Perhaps it had found its purpose—standing guard over Kampung Bedil.
Another place of spiritual significance lies about 35km from Homestay Benjamin Angki. Known as ‘Telaga Kumang’ (Princess’ Well), this small, shallow pond sits nestled in the hilly area of Nanga Ngungun, accessible through the old road. The Ibans believe in its power and visit with their prayers, hoping their wishes will be fulfilled.
“The water level never recedes, no matter how much time passes,” shared Uding Bungai, head of Rumah Uding.
Named after an Iban princess who once bathed there, the well remains a site for rituals and blessings, its calm waters holding ancestral tales.
Some places are mere stops on a journey; others become part of the stories we carry. The cannon of Kampung Bedil and the ‘Telaga Kumang’ of Nanga Ngungun are among those that linger in memory, long after one has moved on.
Where the river runs, where Kanowit thrives
The town of Kanowit, though small, is vibrant and lively, far beyond our expectations. It is alive, it is pulsing, it is breathing. Rows of shophouses line the streets, many of them home to coffee shops—at least two, if not more, in each row—offering patrons a variety of choices to sit, sip, and soak in the town’s atmosphere. Parking was difficult to find, but we were incredibly lucky, especially since it was the weekend.
Should you come to Kanowit and hope to spend longer time, Homestay Benjamin Angki is a place for you. It is a good place to unwind a little, and should travellers wish to have a taste of the kampua with a special Kanowit twist, the town is not too far away, only 5km away, located at what the locals call as ‘Kedai Beruban’ (Silver-haired shop).
Homestay Benjamin Angki is one of the 10 homestays operated within the 53-doored longhouse in Rantau Kemiding, Kanowit. Each door offers 3 rooms for guests to stay in, with a total of 30 rooms available for booking in the entire longhouse of Rh Benjamin Angki.
As with many old settlements, the longhouse of Rh Benjamin Angki sits by the Kanowit river, once a vital lifeline for travel and trade. Take a moment to soak in the scenery, cast a line if you’re an avid angler, or simply lose yourself in the rhythm of Iban life. If you’d like to experience it firsthand, Frank is the person to call at 011-1061 5193. –DayakDaily
