By Wilfred Pilo
KUCHING, Sept 19: The late Chang Swee Kang’s decision to venture into the ‘ais kacang’ business in the early 1950s was the ‘coolest’ decision he ever made.
His decision led to his name becoming synonymous with the popular shaved ice dessert for 70 years in the city, and counting.
Swee Kang’s daughter, 60-year-old Chang Miaw Choo, revealed to DayakDaily that her grandfather had wanted her father to take over his ‘kueh chap’ business, but the latter declined.
Her father had told her grandfather he did not like it, as preparing ‘kueh chap’ meant long hours in a sweltering kitchen environment. It did not suit him.
“In short, that was my late father Swee Kang’s ais kacang journey until his demise in 2007, and the legacy we carry on today,” revealed Miaw Choo.
She added that when her father started his ais kacang venture in those days, he had operated in the vicinity of the present open-air market area before taking up a stall there.
“Apart from his ais kacang, he and my late mother were well-known for their ‘ais-krim potong’ and traditional coconut candy.
“We (the children) regretted we didn’t get to learn those recipes from my parents. Or else we could have these sweet desserts today,” she lamented.
Miaw Choo said if her father was still alive, he would still be working at his ais kacang station as he loved making it.
“After his (Swee Kang) passing, my older brother took over his place, but he too has died. Another brother, an architect, took over their legacy for a while and did it from our house at Jalan Haji Taha before (we moved to) this cafe in 2009.”
Miaw Choo added that all of the children had suggested to her father that he should operate a cafe, but he declined until his death.
“I am glad we have this cafe, as I was born in this area too and have continued his legacy,” she added.
“I took over the business as my architect brother has diverted his attention into other professions, but we are still closely knit and into keeping the business going.”
Miaw Choo shared that when her father started his ais kacang dessert business, he never used the term ‘ABC’ until the 1980s or 1990s.
“It was either ‘cendol ‘or ‘ais kacang’ (a mixture of shaved ice with tapioca jelly and red beans with coconut milk ) but it was West Malaysian soldiers who ordered and called the dessert ABC literally ‘ais batu campur”.
“According to my late father, it used to bemuse him as the name was difficult to pronounce.”
She also shared that some customers just said ‘Swee Kang’ when they ordered their cold dessert, and her staff told them that it was the cafe’s name, not the ais kacang or other desserts served at the cafe.
Miaw Choo lamented that some vendors had used the ‘Swee Kang’ name to market their own desserts despite the family patenting the name and logo.
“We hope people don’t simply take advantage of the name and the logo depicting my late father.”
Miaw Choo added that the distinctive taste of their ais kacang has remained almost the same since her father started the business.
“However, the quality of the ingredients is not the same, so it is slightly different,” she explained.
She shared that a customer had told her that her son would not eat ais kacang she bought from a festival bazaar as it was not the ‘Swee Kang ais kacang’.
“The customer told me that the vendor who sold her the ais kacang said it was ‘Swee Kang’. Her son, who had tried the ais kacang, convinced her it was not. So, I am glad young people who are regulars know what our desserts taste like.”
Miaw Choo pointed out that three generations had already been involved in Swee Kang’s ais kacang business as most of her nieces and nephews are now helping out.
“They are not interested in furthering their studies but want to stay put with what their grandfather started. They are so used to helping at the stalls and the cafe.
“Their commitment to their grandfather’s (Swee Kang) business has strengthened and bonded our family together,” she said.
Miaw Choo, entrusted to carry out Swee Kang’s legacy, expressed happiness that the various food stalls operating at the cafe also belong to the family.
“We serve local dishes suited to the local palate like ‘rojak buah’,’mee hoon belacan’, ‘laksa’, ‘mee goreng apong’, ‘lok-lok’,’ rojak sotong’, banana fritters, and our customer’s favourite the ‘umai jelly’.”
She added these dishes go well with the Swee Kang cafe’s variety of cold desserts.
Miaw Choo disclosed that Swee Kang ais kacang is only served at their cafe but they also make them available for gatherings, parties and festivals.
“We have ventured out to bring our desserts to the whole of Kuching through our mobile trucks so people can get their ais kacang or what they call now ‘ABC’.
“My father’s legacy seems to continue moving. We hope Swee Kang’s ais kacang is still one of the ‘coolest’ desserts in the city,” she said.
Swee Kang Ais Kacang is located at Jalan Kulas-Haji Taha Interchange, Kampung Bandarshah, Kuching. It operates daily from 12pm to 6.30pm except on Tuesdays. For more information, call 013 811 7824. — DayakDaily
