Taste five decades of tradition at Hui Sing’s Hap Chen Hian Satay

Sim's succulent pork satay grilled over a charcoal fire at Hui Sing Hawker Centre.
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By Wilfred Pilo

KUCHING, Oct 17: Given a choice, most 17-year-olds would not willingly stand behind the sweltering heat of a barbeque stove filled with hot burning charcoal for hours at a time, but this was not the case for Sim Cheng Hian.

Sim said since he was a boy, he had helped to make and sell satay to support the family business.

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A decade later, the skills he picked up as a young apprentice have served Sim, now aged 27, well as he continues the family business at the Hui Sing hawker centre. The family business known as Hap Chen Hian Satay is well known for its chicken and pork satay.

Sim Cheng Hian grills satay at Hui Sing Hawker Centre.
Sim’s succulent pork and chicken satay served with rice cake and a savoury peanut sauce for dipping.

He told DayakDaily he knew that after completing his secondary education, he would join the family business which was started by his grandfather.

He revealed that his family had been making and selling meat skewers for five decades and now operates at four locations in the city.

“My family was among the hawkers along Palm Road in the 1970s and 1980s selling satay before moving to the Hui Sing hawker centre in 1994, 30 years ago.

“I am the third generation making these skewers and have made it my profession while helping out the family,” he said.

The soft-spoken six-foot-tall Sim who looks more like an athlete than a satay seller, acknowledged that many people thought he played sports, and he appreciated it.

“I never really got into sports, and I hope my body frame is not intimidating. I am a gentle giant. Now my fitness came from moving about making satay. When you prepare the dishes and serve customers, you are very mobile. It is good exercise,” he said with a smile.

Sim (right) and his assistant grill pork and chicken skewers at Hui Sing Hawker Centre.

He revealed that he has loved satay since he was young and counts them among his favourite foods.

“As a boy, I didn’t have to look for it as I got rewarded with them when helping out at the family stall. Of course, now I am making it myself. It is more delectable,” he joked.

Sim said he was glad it also allowed him to spend a number of years with his grandfather, the man who started the family satay business, before the latter’s passing.

“After his passing, my father, Sim Song Ngam, now 62, took over and came to Hui Sing Hawker Centre in 1994.

“My grandfather passed away in his 80s. Bless him, we followed his legacy and continued what he left behind. All that we have now was started by my grandfather and all his children are in the culinary trade.”

Sim disclosed he has two other siblings, as well as his mother, making and selling satay at various locations in the city.

“My two younger sisters are capable and I am not surprised we continue the legacy as the third generation in making satay,” he added.

Sim said they had been using their closely guarded satay recipe for five decades and is glad they have maintained the consistency of the taste for their customers over the years.

Managing the heat of the charcoal fire is key to ensuring the satay is cooked to juicy tenderness and not dried out.

“Of course, like every business, there are comments but not much complaints. For instance, customers would say that their satay is a bit charred.

“We take such comments from customers positively as it helps hone our skills and make us better at grilling the skewers.”

Sim added it takes about 10 minutes to grill the satay over the controlled charcoal heat.

“It is to allow the satay to cook uniformly before consuming.”

Sim said their daily operation starts at 3pm to cater to those in search of a light meal or snacks. Some customers also order takeaways to bring home.

“This is one of the trends we have seen over the years and of course, customers would usually enjoy the dishes here at the stall.

“This is the local hawker centre scene that has become part of our culture and heritage. There is nothing like this atmosphere where you can enjoy good local food,” he added.

When asked about the ‘Hap Chen Hian’ signboard at the entrance of his stall, Sim said that it stands for ‘Everyone Can Come’.

“This given name and meaning (of the sign) at our entrance is according to the family source,” he elaborated.

He shared that they had the signboard since they started operating at the hawker centre.

“Having such meaning helps pull the crowd too. As our stall is in the middle of the hawker centre, people coming from both ends can smell the aroma of the barbecue smoke.

“By the time they reach our spot, they would be hungry and order from us. I think it is a cunning strategy,” he added.

“I am blessed and enjoy the profession and proud to be able to continue my grandfather’s legacy. I am sure he is happy to see his grandson stand behind the sweltering charcoal grill making satay like him and loving every minute of it,” he said.

Hap Chen Hian Satay is located at Hui Sing Hawker Centre.

Hap Chen Hian Satay is located at 10, Hui Sing Hawker Centre. It operates daily from 3pm to 7pm except on public holidays. For more information, call 012 218 3361. — DayakDaily

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