Small but mighty: The bubuk behind Bintulu’s famous belacan and cincalok

Dried bubuk for sale at Pasar Tamu Bintulu.
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By Yvonne T

BINTULU, Feb 22: When it comes to Bintulu’s signature flavours, the first things that come to mind are the belacan (shrimp paste) and cincalok (fermented krill); iconic seafood products well-known across Sarawak for their rich, umami-packed flavours.

At the heart of these delicacies is the humble krill or locally known as bubuk, or udang geragau, a tiny marine crustacean that punches far above its weight.

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Even now, almost a year since the bubuk season, typically in March and April, Bintulu’s belacan and cincalok continue to sell like hot cakes at the Pasar Tamu Bintulu, with demand constant and steady from tourists, travellers, locals, expats alike.

Simba showing Belacan Bintulu made by her, in the form of cubes.

For Belacan Bintulu and cincalok maker and entrepreneur Simba anak Entili from Tatau, quality is everything. Guided by Persatuan Nelayan Negeri Sarawak, SEDC Sarawak, and SME Corp, she has gone the extra mile to certify her products, ensuring both authenticity and consistency.

“Bintulu has a patent and you can’t put it as ‘Bintulu Belacan’, you must patent your own name to the belacan. This logo has been trademarked and from thereon we know if you have your own products. It has been sent to the lab. The quality has been checked. The sample of this product was sent to the lab in Kuching,” she told the D’Drift team.

Belacan Bintulu in cube form sold at Pasar Tamu BIntulu.

She also highlighted the difference between Belacan Merah and Belacan Bintulu, the latter being handmade and authentically from Bintulu, using natural ingredients and locally sourced bubuk, while Belacan Merah is typically factory made and sourced from outside Sarawak.

To make it more convenient for cooking and transport, she has also pressed her belacan into cubes; a suggestion she adopted from local fishermen.

Belacan Bintulu sold at Pasar Tamu Bintulu.

On the making of the belacan, Simba explained that the belacan takes about a few days to make.

“If you can finish it today, then by tomorrow you can dry it. It takes about six hours after you drained the belacan water. But during rainy days, it will be slower.”

Her standards for cincalok are even higher.

“Anything can go wrong if you’re not careful. Once the bubuk arrives, you’re not allowed to wash it. I inspect every batch to make sure it’s clean. Usually, the fishermen have their own supplies, and they will check for the quality.

“If the bubuk is taken too close to the shore, there will be more sand. We need to take the bubuk a little further into the sea,” she explained.

Belacan Bintulu and cincalok seller Tabuling Lasa mixing chilled cincalok, to be packed and sold at Pasar Tamu Bintulu.

Weather, she added, is another crucial factor.

“What most people don’t know is weather is a big factor in the quality of cincalok. When they (the fishermen) bring in their catch of the cincalok, it is important to know if it has rained or not, because it takes about one to two hours to bring in the catch from the sea.

“Aside from salt and sugar that makes a good cincalok, whether it has rained or not when the catch is being brought back from the sea, determines the quality of the bubuk. We want it fresh, and still shiny, the rain can affect that,” she said.

Samsiah explaining how she makes her version of the Belacan Bintulu.

Meanwhile, Samsiah, another artisanal Belacan Bintulu maker, shares the same dedication.
She sun-dries her belacan for three days to deepen its flavor, and she offers a tip for enthusiasts: like wine, belacan improves with age.

The longer it’s kept, the richer the taste.

Rolled Belacan Bintulu left out to dry under the sun.

With the bubuk season approaching, Bintulu’s markets are preparing for a lively surge in activity. Fishermen ready their nets, sellers polish their wares, and the air fills with anticipation of the small crustacean that holds such a mighty reputation. – DayakDaily

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