By Wilfred Pilo
Running a business is usually stressful work.
It is however not so for 64-year-old Madang Mapus from Kampung Emproh Semadang along Jalan Puncak Borneo who finds that running a fastfood stall helps her to destress.
“I discovered that cooking is therapy for me. I still have the energy to do something after I retired from the teaching profession,” shared Madang.
She revealed that her five children did not want her to work anymore and urged her to enjoy her retirement.
“But cooking has always been my passion ever since I was a teenager, and at the same time, I want to share the Bidayuh style of cooking with others.
“This spurred me to start on this journey of running my own food business,” she said, revealing how she started the fastfood stall which she runs with her 61-year sister Doris Mapus.
When planning her menu, Madang tries to prepare food which suit a wide range of tastes but with a Dayak-Bidayuh twist so that everybody can enjoy her dishes.
“Bidayuh food is quite plain, and therefore a fusion style of cooking is needed. I need to see what type of customers come to my fastfood stall,” she added.
Madang said she tries to prepare must-have Bidayuh food like chicken, fish or pork cooked in bamboo, cucumber or bitter gourd shoots, pounded tapioca leaves, and dishes with Dayak brinjal and other combinations of local vegetables.
She also includes side dishes such as fried tempoyak (fermented durian paste), belacan (fermented prawn) sauce, fried salted fish and many more.
She tries to satisfy customers’ palates as well as introduce them to Dayak-Bidayuh food.
“With that, we hope they like the Dayak food, just like how we natives also like Chinese, Malay and Indian cuisine.”
Madang said there is a need to promote local Dayak food or delicacies as there are not many eateries offering such cuisine.
“To sustain the Dayak culinary style, the ingredients must be available. Our farmers’ market should have all these ingredients. This will make preparation and cooking easier,” she opined.
“I think that (lack of ingredients) is probably part of the reason why there are not many Dayak eateries in the city.”
She is happy that her sister who is a retired nurse matron, shares her passion for cooking Bidayuh food.
“My younger sister is giving me a helping hand. We hope that people come to our fastfood stall and try our food. We both hope to make our passion for cooking a reality.
“My sister and I are still learning the trade and we hope that Dayak food, especially the Bidayuh style of cooking and preparation can be accepted by food lovers,” she said.
Dayak food and dishes have their place in our local food scene as one of the many gastronomical options reflecting the diversity of Malaysian gastronomy. It is loved not just by locals but also foreign visitors and food enthusiasts.
Despite the popularity of Dayak food, recent anecdotal evidence suggests it is getting more difficult to come across Dayak food in the city.
This writer who was under the impression that there are many such food operators was alerted by a friend who is an enthusiastic food lover. He lamented that he had to search for ethnic Dayak food and dishes and also questioned why they appeared to be not as easily found around the city anymore.
With Malaysia likely to soon reopen its borders to international travellers, the tourism sector is seeking to recover from losses suffered in the wake of two years of travel lockdowns caused by the dreadful Covid-19 pandemic.
It is hoped that local food business operators and suppliers can collaborate to bring the best of Sarawakian food including Dayak and other ethnic cuisine back to more eating tables so that locals as well as visitors can continue to enjoy all the exciting food Sarawak has to offer.
For those wanting to get a taste of Dayak-Bidayuh food, head over to Madang and Doris’ fastfood stall at Qing Siang Yuen Cafe, SL22 Jalan Canna, Tabuan Tranquility. It operates Monday to Friday from 10am to 2.30pm.
For inquiries, call 019 866 7438. — DayakDaily