Passion on a plate: Amy Goh revives her culinary dream with signature Kolo Mee

A bowl of Amy Goh’s Kolo Mee.
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By Wilfred Pilo

KUCHING, Aug 28: For Amy Goh, 54, every bowl of noodles she serves carries a story, a taste, and a memory.

Drawing on what she fondly calls her “photographic memory” of unique culinary experiences during her years in Singapore, she confidently crafts dishes that keep her regulars coming back for more.

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Her culinary journey began soon after she returned to Kuching, inspired by her seven years abroad. What started as a personal passion soon grew into a profession, one she has helmed with dedication ever since.

“Living in Singapore opened up Pandora’s box for me, especially in the culinary world. That’s when I began honing my skills in foods that fascinated me,” she told DayakDaily in a recent interview.

Goh working at her Kolo Mee stall’s cooking station.

Growing up in the Green Road area, where her father once ran a grocery store, Goh knew the neighbourhood well and felt it was the perfect spot to put her passion into practice. With confidence and creativity, she launched her first stall, introducing claypot dishes to a café in the area, a concept that was uncommon at the time.

“I wanted patrons to have variety and not get bored. I experimented with different dishes and soon my pork leg, kacangma, asam fish, and curry became my signature offerings.

“I relied on my memory of great flavours and was proud when customers gave me a thumbs-up. For a self-taught cook, that was real job satisfaction,” she said.

Some of the broth dishes by Goh catered using tiffin for her customers.

For two decades, Goh enjoyed the joy of serving others, but like many food operators, she faced mounting challenges from escalating ingredient costs and rising rent. Eventually, she had to take a break, a pause that coincided with the Covid-19 pandemic.

Yet, her passion never waned. Encouraged by her husband, whom she describes as her biggest motivator, Goh returned to the trade with renewed focus. Three years ago, she decided to specialise in Kolo Mee, a Sarawak staple beloved by many.

“It was easier and more cost-effective, but it still took me three months to perfect the taste. Now, I can confidently say my Kolo Mee is competitive, and I hope it brings satisfaction to both regulars and new patrons,” she said.

Beyond noodles, Goh also serves kueh tiaw, bee hoon, wanton, and Sarawak Laksa, while offering tiffin catering for loyal customers. Still, she admits preserving the authentic taste of traditional dishes is becoming more difficult as demographics and food preferences change.

“It’s up to operators like us to preserve our food culture and take pride in our heritage. Every Kolo Mee operator tries their best to stay authentic, and I believe that’s what Sarawakians truly want,” she emphasised.

Goh;s kolo mee stall is located at Food Village Cafe at Poh Kwong Park commercial centre along Jalan Sungai Maong Tengah.

Today, Goh runs her stall at Food Village Café, located at 216, Jalan Sungai Maong Tengah, Poh Kwong Park. It operates daily from 6am to 3pm, except Sundays. For enquiries or orders, call 011-1312 6979. — DayakDaily

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