A Living Tapestry of Culture and Heart in Kampung Benuk Homestay
When I first heard of Kampung Benuk, a Bidayuh village near Kuching, I expected scenic views—not a place that would move me so deeply and feel like home.
When I arrived, the host, Isabell Julau, greeted me at the village entrance with a bright smile. “Slamat mandŭg —— Welcome to Benuk,” she said warmly. That night, we sang karaoke with the locals, sat under the stars during a ‘santai’ (relaxing) session, and I was already falling in love with the village’s rhythm.
The next morning, Isabell took me to the Benuk Longhouse, a towering bamboo structure built on stilts. As I climbed the traditional timber staircase and stepped inside, I felt history come alive beneath me. Inside, elderly women wove baskets, children played joyfully, and the scent of woodsmoke lingered in the air. Every crack and creak of the bamboo floor seemed to whisper stories of generations past.
At the far end of the longhouse stood the Panggah, the sacred ritual house. Human skulls from the headhunting era hung solemnly above a hearth, surrounded by ceremonial tools. Isabell explained the tale of Mangbarik, a brave warrior who defended the village from pirates. According to legend, his enemies were cursed and turned into stone—Batu Jung—still visible in the river nearby. I realised then that this was more than a village—it was a living museum of courage and culture.
At the mini museum, Isabell’s voice turned reverent among Otor’s collections: a 19th-century bead necklace, Japanese Occupation banknotes, and a Ventolin bottle repurposed as a vase. “My grandfather believed every object has a story,” she said, polishing a brass gong.
“Even this—” she held up a black-and-white TV—” once brought the whole village together for cartoons.”
In the following days, I became part of the village. I helped plant paddy with giggling aunties, trekked through the rainforest, bathed in the river, and toured farms of pineapple, pepper, and durian. At every turn, nature embraced me, and the villagers guided me.
But what I remember most is the food. We shared meals seated on mats, and every bite told a story. The manok pansuh—chicken slow-cooked in bamboo—was tender and aromatic. I couldn’t get enough of the spicy kasam ensabi and fresh jungle vegetables. Isabell even taught me to prepare tempoyak sambal—fermented durian chilli paste—while the children giggled at my expression after the first taste.
On my last night, I asked her why she opened her home to strangers. She looked out into the rain and said, “Because every story shared keeps our culture alive. And sometimes, in welcoming others, we find parts of ourselves again.”
The next morning, Isabell gave me a bracelet made of engkerurai seeds and slipped it around my wrist. “Now you carry Benuk’s heartbeat,” she said. And she was right.
I came to Kampung Benuk as a visitor. I left with a deeper understanding of Bidayuh tradition and memories etched into my soul.
Benuk didn’t just show me its culture—it shared its heart. —DayakDaily
Benedict Lau Shu Xian from Kuching is the Top 10 Winner (Youth Category) in the ‘Homestay Odyssey’ writing competition organised by DayakDaily and supported by the Sarawak Ministry of Tourism, Creative Industry and Performing Arts.
