By Wilfred Pilo
KUCHING, Dec 12: When the morning chill settles over Kuching, there’s something profoundly comforting about watching steam rise from a bowl of peppery pork stomach soup, especially when it carries nearly 40 years of family history in every spoonful.
At Sing Garden Cafe, 34-year-old Mona Kho has become something of a local sensation, not just for her culinary skills, but for the story simmering beneath them.
Two years ago, she traded the predictability of a nine-to-five desk job in Singapore for the organised chaos of a food stall, armed with her savings and something far more valuable: her family’s closely guarded recipes.
“Delving into culinary wasn’t just an option; I’ve always loved doing it, as it’s in my blood. My parents and family members are culinary connoisseurs and operate stalls in eateries and markets, especially during Chinese festivals.
“Our family is good at making traditional Teo Chew style snacks like ‘Bak Chang’ (glutinous rice dumplings), steamed buns, and ‘Siew Bee’ (pork dumplings) and local Chinese ‘kuih’,” she told DayakDaily.
It’s a legacy she wears proudly, even as she manages the demanding pace of running a one-woman operation.
The current spell of chilly weather has turned her signature pork stomach soup into the neighbourhood’s worst-kept secret. The broth, steeped with herbs and punched up with ginger and pepper, has locals queueing patiently for a taste of what Kho describes as “nostalgic meal moments.”
But this isn’t just about feeding hungry customers. For Kho, every bowl represents something deeper: a bridge between generations, a preservation of Teochew cooking traditions that stretch back longer than she’s been alive.
Her menu extends beyond the famous soup to include ‘kueh chap’, those delightfully slippery flat rice noodle sheets served in broth with pork offal, and her pork leg rice, dishes that have earned their own devoted following.
What strikes you about Kho isn’t just her culinary competence, impressive though it is for someone only two years into professional cooking. It’s her determination to keep something precious from fading away.
“Of course, we have our family version, and after almost 4 decades of crafting these dishes, I am optimistic that people who love Teochew-style dishes love it,” she said.
Her brother, based in Singapore, has also embraced the family’s culinary calling, creating what Kho proudly calls an international presence for the Kho family recipes.
“We both work in the culinary trade now, maintaining our family’s cooking style, not just in Kuching but also internationally. I believe my parents and our family are proud. Our Kho’s family recipe has audiences here and abroad,” she beamed.
These days, Kho’s stall has become more than just a place to grab a quick meal. Office workers order catering for gatherings, trusting her to customise dishes to suit different palates.
Regular customers have learned to exercise patience. After all, quality takes time, especially when you’re managing everything yourself.
“I’m a one-man show, so a little patience, but you’ll get your Kho’s delectable dishes,” she chuckled, her cheeky smile suggesting she knows exactly how worth the wait her food is.
As Kuching’s weather continues its cool spell, Kho’s kitchen will keep producing bowls of that soul-warming broth, each one a small act of cultural preservation, each one connecting diners to traditions that have sustained families and communities for generations.
Kho’s Teochew Kueh Chap Stall operates at Sing Garden Cafe daily from 7am to 1pm, except Mondays. For enquiries, call 011-3995 6115. — DayakDaily
