By Ling Hui
WHAT memories do you hold of the General Post Office building?
This question can conjure a cascade of recollections for the townsfolk of Kuching, each like a page torn from the vibrant annals of the city’s past.
As I embarked on this passionate quest to unearth the untold narratives of the General Post Office building, I was captivated by the stories and anecdotes of those who have walked its very hallowed halls.
A 7-year-old boy, immaculately dressed in his crisply pressed school uniform, was hurrying from India Street to St Thomas School amid the morning bustle of old Kuching town. His school bag danced lightly on his shoulders as he expertly navigated through the crowd gathered at the bus stop.
With a cheerful bounce in his steps, he traversed the corridors of the General Post Office building, a daily ritual ingrained in him. As he moved, he instinctively lifted his right hand, fingers gently caressing the cool, weathered walls of the magnificent structure.
This little boy is today 63-years-old. He is Dr Shajahan Sayed Ahmad, the owner of Syarikat Salih Ahmad, a textile shop at India Street.
“I had been going to school (passing by the General Post Office building). I studied at St Thomas School. We used to stay upstairs (of the textile shop)—business downstairs and upstairs, residence.
“So, I’ve been passing by that Post Office (building) for the last, I should say, 57 years. It’s not only a nice, huge building but also a landmark in this area.
“Anyone who wants to know the history of the area including India Street, there’s the Post Office. It’s a walking distance away. It is a landmark,” he said.
At China Street, Sairam Company owner Mr Wee, 75, has fond memories of an era when handwritten letters held the power to bridge distance and warm hearts.
He remembers the General Post Office as a hub of activity, where many people including himself, would patiently queue to purchase stamps and dispatch their cherished letters or important documents.
“I would find myself there nearly every day, to deliver and retrieve letters (back in those days). Sometimes, I would go there twice a day, in the morning and in the afternoon, for both personal and business reasons.
“The Post Office used to offer services like sending insured letters, but we would have to pay more. A normal stamp would cost maybe 15 cents, and an insured letter would cost about 60 cents more,” he said.
In today’s world of smartphones and email, such penned heartfelt correspondence has become a rare gem.
As letters gradually lost their significance in the community and communication found newfound ease in the digital realm, Wee admitted, with a touch of nostalgia, that he seldom steps into the Post Office nowadays.
Meanwhile, for Lok, 46-years-old and the third-generation proprietor of Kok Ann Medical Store at Carpenter Street, the General Post Office is a vivid reminder of his youthful days.
With a smile, he fondly recalled how, during a time when cars were a rarity, the bustling bus stop right in front of the General Post Office served not only as a mode of transportation, but also a hub for young boys and girls from nearby schools to meet and gather.
“In those days, our friendships were pure, nothing more than that. During the New Year, the area around the Post Office would also come alive with people,” he said when reminiscing about daily life in the 1980s.
For most locals, according to Lok, the General Post Office held more poignant memories for them as a bus stop compared to the bus terminal at Jalan Masjid as the former was an essential stop for most buses heading to housing areas, thus where most commuters converged.
Recalling those times, Lok highlighted two prominent bus stops in Kuching of that era—one at the General Post Office, and the other at Kuching Waterfront.
“It was really crowded back then (at the General Post Office) because it was a central point for many things. There were also shoplots opposite the Post Office, about 10 to 12 shops there, including Fock Hoi Restaurant and Supersonic Cafe,” he added.
Within the tapestry of memories of the iconic General Post Office building, are woven countless stories, lying dormant waiting to be discovered and shared.
Some, like Tham, 70, the third-generation owner of Hock Hai Dim Sum (formerly Fock Hoi), may not have specific memories but still remembers the Post Office as being a busy place situated along the then Rock Road, which was the main road that connected the outskirts and city centre.
For septuagenarian Ong Ah Aik, who owns Shin Kee Goldsmith at China Street, the General Post Office holds a different significance—more functional. That is where he has been visiting for the last 30 years to pay utility bills, road taxes, and Astro subscription fees.
These personal recollections about the venerated building, shared by individuals from various walks of life, collectively emphasise that the significance of the General Post Office building to the people of Kuching transcends mere brick and mortar. It serves as a time capsule of cherished moments and shared experiences, connecting the past with the present.
A Jewel of Neo-Classical Elegance
Nestled along the picturesque Jalan Tun Abang Haji Openg, also nostalgically known as Rock Road, here in Kuching, the General Post Office stands a remarkable testament to the city’s architectural splendor, an exquisite relic of the past which has witnessed the ebb and flow of time since its grand unveiling in 1931.
Designed by the ingenious Denis Santry of Swan and Maclaren Architects in Singapore, the General Post Office is a unique gem of well-preserved elegance. It proudly boasts a neo-classical facade with semi-circular arches and intricately adorned column capitals and friezes.
The grandeur of this building that is approximately 100 feet in length, is evident in its 10 massive 30-foot-tall Corinthian columns gracing the main entrance. They are flanked by exquisite carvings on the ceiling and eaves above, creating an aesthetic that seamlessly marries form and function.
The 92-year-old building is also a masterclass in architectural subtlely. Its deep parapet walls skillfully conceal a pitched roof, while a colonnaded portico serves as both a corridor and a testimony to the building’s timeless beauty.
This building stands as the sole architectural masterpiece of its kind in Sarawak, making it a symbol of true marvel in Kuching.
History buff James Yong who is also the author of ‘Padungan: History & Humanity in a Heritage Precinct of Kuching, Sarawak, Malaysia’, said the General Post Office building is one of the few major infrastructure projects by Sir Charles Vyner Brooke, the third and last White Rajah of Sarawak, other than the Sylvia Cinema.
“The second Rajah, Sir Charles Brooke, built many significant buildings during his reign, many of Western style, such as the Old Courthouse, the Astana, the Pavilion, and Round Tower.
“As for the first Rajah, Sir James Brooke, he might have built a few, like his own residence, but almost none from his time have survived,” he told DayakDaily when contacted recently.
From Stable to Splendour
Before the General Post Office building graced Kuching with its majestic presence, its site held a different role in the city’s history. Once upon a time, this very spot was home to the police station and the Rajah’s stables.
These stables, a bustling attap long shed, housed dozens of horses that served only the elite—the Rajahs, senior European officials, top management of Borneo Company Limited, the Malay leaders and esteemed guests—who were privileged to travel on horseback in those times.
It was during the Vyner’s reign that the police station and stables were relocated, replaced with a building that accommodated not only the Post Office, but also over time The Chartered Bank, Land and Survey Department and other government offices.
According to history writer Chai Kit Siang, the General Post Office was more than a postal centre; it was a hub of communication that played a significant and cryptic role during World War II.
“When the Japanese army captured Kuching, a senior officer of the Post Office at the time sent a telegram to notify the British of the fall of Kuching. There was only one sentence in the telegram: ‘Pussy’s in the well’.
“From what I heard from Dr Julitta Lim, the author of the book ‘Pussy’s in the Well: Japanese Occupation of Sarawak, 1941-1945’, this information was held by a nurse and that person was from where she (Lim) got the story.
“So, that General Post Office was where that telegram was sent out from,” he said.
Today and Tomorrow
Today, the General Post Office stands firmly as a celebrated icon of Kuching’s rich history. It is not merely a post office for us to pay utility bills, assessment bills, or renew road taxes, but living proof of Kuching’s evolution. It is a treasure chest full of memories, a place where history and time have converged to create a living story for all to cherish.
As you stroll past this magnificent structure, feel the echoes of the past and appreciate the timeless beauty it bestows upon us. Let it remind us that history is not confined to the pages of books; it is etched into the very bricks and columns that tower over us.
This year on July 19, Sarawak Premier Datuk Patinggi Tan Sri Abang Johari Tun Openg disclosed that the General Post Office building is on the list of 52 lots of land which the federal government has agreed to return to Sarawak.
Now only time will reveal the next chapter in the story of this iconic building. What will its future hold? It is a question that fills the air with anticipation and curiosity.
Some may beg for the building to be preserved as a symbol of heritage while some may wish to see it find new life and purpose to serve the ever-evolving needs of Kuching residents. The possibilities are as endless as the imagination.
As we await the unfolding of this narrative, let us pledge to continue honouring the legacy of this architectural marvel, ensuring that the stories it embodies live on for generations to come. — DayakDaily