By Wilfred Pilo
KUCHING, Dec 18: For more than seven decades, the Chai family’s ‘Kungfu’ noodles have been a beloved fixture in the city, famed for their tender, handmade texture and soulful flavours.
Today, it is Jenny Tan, the family’s daughter-in-law, who continues to nurture this culinary legacy, carefully refining each strand of noodle as she carries forward a time-honoured tradition.
At 60, Tan is both a custodian and a connoisseur of the Chai family’s signature dish. Marrying into a family of renowned noodle makers, she calls it a blessing to be entrusted with recipes that have delighted generations of customers.
According to Tan, her father-in-law started making and serving handmade noodles in the late 1950s. He continued to serve the dish throughout the 1960s until his passing in 1994.
“My father-in-law and his family operated an eatery in the city centre, producing and serving noodles for about four decades before our relocation to the present location, which afforded us a larger premises for the production of these handmade noodles,” she recalled.
Tan took over the day-to-day serving of the noodles after her father-in-law’s passing, while her brother-in-law oversees production.
“I have been serving the noodles here for 32 years, and the legacy of my father-in-law continues today,” she told the DayakDaily.
Initially, when they began serving noodles at the current premises, Tan stated that their reception had been somewhat lacklustre as the area was sparsely populated.
“The focus was primarily on production, but the surge in popularity began some time ago with the rise of social media and people seeking a more authentic taste of handmade noodles.”
Tan shared a memorable moment that underscores the appeal of the noodles: a noodle enthusiast from Singapore once came and devoured 25 bowls in a single sitting.
She said such enthusiastic reception has boosted her confidence to engage with larger audiences and promoted her as both the maker and server of these beloved noodles.
“This kind of support helps a lot, especially after the pandemic, when many businesses were affected in the country,” she chuckled.
Modest about her family’s success, Tan attributed their popularity to the rarity of true pioneers of handmade noodles.
“Now our signature dish is the ‘Kungfu’ noodle that comes with wanton (meat dumpling). Initially, it was just the noodle alone. The taste and appetite of people have changed. For us, it helps us in crafting more savoury dishes,” she smiled.
She recommended the eatery’s recent handmade noodles dish with a dark vinegar flavour, a dish that is fast gaining popularity at her establishment.
“Given the diversity of palates, offering these dishes provides our customers with a wider array of choices for our handmade noodles.”
As the family’s handmade noodles continue to grace people’s plates, she finds comfort in knowing the tradition is being carried on to the next generation.
Her son, Aaron Chai, has shown a keen interest in the business, standing shoulder to shoulder with her to craft the family recipes.
“I am proud that he has inherited the culinary genes, keeping the recipes intact in the family,” she said.
At 32, Aaron now oversees the kitchen while his mother attends to other duties. He revealed that he has been honing his noodle-making skills for 15 years, pursuing a passion he has nurtured since his youth.
“Since the rest of my siblings are in other professions, I find culinary work exhilarating, and I am happy to serve the noodles started by my grandfather.
“For now, the legacy is definitely continuing, and the ‘Kungfu’ handmade noodles will continue to be served as long as we have the necessary ingredients and customers,” he enthused.
The ‘Kungfu’ noodle eatery is located along Jalan Stapok, Hongnion Garden. It operates from 7am to 11am, Monday through Saturday, and from 5pm to 9pm, Monday through Friday. For more information, call 012-8958500. – DayakDaily
