By Wilfred Pilo
KUCHING: At 80, Penang-born Linda Lee may have stepped away from the frying pan, but she still takes pride in bringing the authentic taste of Penang street food to Kuching, a passion she has maintained for nearly two decades.
Her Penang-style char kueh tiaw has become a favourite among regular customers at Kwong Hup Cafe, where she has introduced local diners to the distinctive flavours of the island’s famed fried flat noodles.
With 30 years of cooking experience, Lee said she wanted to offer something different when she first started preparing the dish in Kuching.
“When I first started, Kuching people were more familiar with a simpler version of char kueh tiaw, usually fried with meat, eggs and bean sprouts.
“I introduced prawns, clams and chives, together with dried chilli paste to give the noodles a spicy kick. If there are no clams, I’ll substitute it with bamboo clam for the dish. Customers liked the taste, and that encouraged me to continue,” she told Dayak Daily.
However, she soon realised that she had to adjust the cooking style to suit local preferences.
While Penang people generally enjoyed their char kueh tiaw slightly moist, Kuching diners tend to prefer a drier version.
“I give my customers what they want, but I still maintain the Penang flavour in my cooking,” she said with a smile.
Besides char kueh tiaw, Lee also serves other Penang favourites to local diners, including Penang-style char kuih kak (fried rice cake) and char bihun (fried rice vermicelli).
For Linda, cooking is more than a business; it’s a way to share Malaysia’s diverse culinary heritage with her community.
“People do not need to travel all the way to Penang to enjoy these dishes. They can have the taste of Penang right here in Kuching,” she said.
Lee moved to Kuching in 1992 when her late husband came to work in the city.
With her children now all grown up, Linda took the time to master the culinary arts through years of hands-on experience and determination rather than through formal training.
Over the years, Kuching became home to her and her family, with her children now married to locals.
Although she stopped manning the frying station over a year ago, Lee is proud that her culinary legacy continues through her assistant, 32-year-old Ah Huat.
Having personally trained him for 12 years, she eventually entrusted him with the responsibility of preparing the dishes and maintaining the flavours her customers have come to love.
“I know he is capable of maintaining the authentic Penang taste, and I am proud of him,” she said.
While her children have pursued careers of their own, her son keeps the family tradition alive by preparing their secret soy sauce recipe.
For Lee, one of the greatest rewards of her years in the kitchen is seeing customers return for the food she has lovingly prepared.
Her “Penang Special” stall operates daily from 6.30 am to 2.30pm at Kwong Hup Cafe, Jalan Tun Zaidi Adruce. For enquiries, call 012-883 3683.
– DayakDaily
