A labour of love: Chang Sze Chai’s Pan Mee at Koufu Food Court wins over diners

A composite picture of Chang Sze Chai preparing Pan Mee and his stall at Koufu Food Court.
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By Wilfred Pilo

Noodle lovers are flocking to Koufu Food Court for the delectable Pan Mee crafted by 48-year-old connoisseur Chang Sze Chai. When he opened his stall, Chang set out to offer more choices for patrons in the 4th Mile area who enjoy this Hakka-style noodle dish.

Having honed his culinary skills in West Malaysia for more than 10 years, Chang said the decision to serve the popular noodle upon returning to Kuching to open a food stall was an easy one.

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Chang’s Hakka-style Pan Mee served in anchovy broth.

Since opening, he has applied his expertise to produce the flat noodles, which are served either in a savoury anchovy broth or dry with chilli sauce, and topped with braised minced pork, fried anchovies, and vegetables.

“These days, we use a machine to flatten the dough and cut the noodles before steeping them in boiling broth. It’s much faster than the old method, which was done manually using a wooden ruler to ensure uniform cuts,” he told DayakDaily when explaining the preparation process.

“It’s not difficult to prepare nowadays, as long as the dough is ready. You need a flat surface to flatten it and a machine to cut it. Of course, the most important elements are the anchovy broth, chilli sauce, or sambal—which is my own version for customers who prefer it dry,” he added.

Chang explained that the flat noodles pair especially well with cangkok manis and crispy ikan bilis (anchovies), which add sweetness and crunch to the dish.

Flat Pan Mee noodles after being cut by the noodle machine.

“I suppose that’s what attracts noodle lovers these days. That’s why it’s important to have crispy fried ikan bilis,” he said with a smile.

He shared that since opening his stall at the food court three years ago, he has received an encouraging response from customers, making the hard work worthwhile, as it also allows him to prepare and serve other noodle dishes.

“This noodle is very popular in West Malaysia, and what I learned from culinary experts there has really paid off here. I’m happy that it has given me a culinary venture that I truly enjoy,” he said.

Chang also expressed his gratitude to his wife, who encouraged him to make Pan Mee when they returned to Kuching to open their stall.

“We both make noodles, but she runs her operation at a different eatery. Our dishes are quite similar in taste,” he chuckled.

Currently, Chang offers nine Pan Mee menu items at affordable prices. Customers can choose between regular flat noodles, small-sized noodles, or hand-torn noodles.

“Customers have their own preferences. It’s easy to prepare, and most importantly, it suits their palates,” he said.

Chang’s Pan Mee stall is located at Koufu Food Court, 4th Mile, Jalan Penrissen. It operates from 6am to 1pm, except on Wednesdays. — DayakDaily

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